Backpacking to Half Dome: A Journey Through Yosemite’s Wilderness

Featuring photography by Mike Struna @designms

Yosemite National Park is arguably one of the most iconic natural treasures in California. Towering granite cliffs, cascading waterfalls, and ancient sequoias make it a destination for adventurers and nature lovers. For many avid hikers, summiting Half Dome is the ultimate goal—a true test of endurance, skill, and determination. In this post, I’ll give you a trip itinerary, tips, and a map for 3 nights backpacking to summit both Cloud’s Rest and Half Dome.

For me, Half Dome had become a bit of a nemesis. My first attempt was canceled due to weather, and the second? A nasty flu kept me sidelined. This time, I was hoping for better luck. As the saying goes, third time’s the charm, right?

This journey was more than just about Half Dome. Over the course of three nights and approximately 23 miles of backpacking, I had the opportunity to explore Yosemite’s rugged wilderness, culminating in not one but two incredible summits: the jaw-dropping Cloud’s Rest and the iconic Half Dome.

What made this trip truly special was the blend of camaraderie, challenge, and Yosemite’s awe-inspiring beauty. Join me as I recount the ups, downs, and unforgettable moments of this epic adventure. I’ll also give you the details so you can plan a trip of your own.

To Get There

A wilderness permit for backpacking is required for overnight stays in Yosemite’s wilderness.

• Reserve in advance through the Yosemite Wilderness Permits page.
• Reservations open 24 weeks (168 days) before your planned start date.
• A small number of walk-up permits are also available on a first-come, first-served basis

In addition, a Half Dome Permit (Day Use) is required. The Wilderness permit does not grant access to the cables on Half Dome.

• Apply via a lottery on Recreation.gov.
• Lottery opens in March, with results announced in mid-April.
• A limited number of daily permits are available through a secondary lottery two days before your hike.
  

Approximately 300 permits are issued per day (225 for day hikers, 75 for backpackers).

When To Go

Trip Itinerary

Embark on a thrilling 3-night backpacking adventure covering approximately 23 miles, featuring two incredible summits: the breathtaking Cloud’s Rest and the iconic Half Dome.

Day One: Start from Backpackers Camp

The adventure began the night before at Backpackers’ Camp, where we settled in, organized our gear, and prepared for the journey ahead. Morning came early, and with it, a flurry of activity—packing, dividing food into bear canisters, and grabbing a quick breakfast. The drive to Sunrise Lakes Trailhead felt like the calm before the storm, filled with excitement and the promise of the trail ahead.

The hike started gently, leading us along a flat trail surrounded by towering trees and boulders. The air was crisp, carrying the unmistakable scent of pine mixed with a faint smokiness from recent forest fires. I couldn’t help but soak in the beauty of the forest around me, with California black oaks, ponderosa pines, incense cedars, and white firs creating a natural sanctuary.

For the first mile or two, the trail was forgiving, allowing us to ease into our stride. But soon, the real challenge began. The terrain tilted upward, leading into a series of switchbacks that climbed to over 8,000 feet. This is where the hike became more than just physical. Carrying a 30-35-pound pack, each step tested my endurance.

As my breath grew heavier and my heart pounded, I focused on the mental game. One step at a time, I reminded myself. You’ve got this. Everyone in the group had their own rhythm, their own way of tackling the climb. We stopped occasionally for water and to make sure no one fell behind, but for the most part, it was just you, the trail, and your thoughts.

After 5 to 5.5 miles, we found a perfect little cove along Tenaya Creek to set up camp for the night. Dropping my pack was a relief like no other, and the sight of our guide preparing campfire pizzas felt like pure magic. Sitting by the fire, eating warm food after such a strenuous day, felt like the ultimate reward.

Under a blanket of stars, we shared stories, laughed, and soaked in the quiet beauty of the wilderness. As the fire crackled and the creek babbled nearby, the weight of the day melted away. We turned in early, knowing that tomorrow would bring the longest and most demanding stretch of the journey.

As I lay in my tent, I couldn’t help but feel a mix of exhaustion and excitement. The hardest part was yet to come, but so were the most unforgettable moments.

Day Two: Summiting Cloud’s Rest & Half Dome

We woke up early, quickly packed up camp—far more efficiently than the day before—and set off toward our first summit of the day: Cloud’s Rest.

Cloud’s Rest

The trail to the base of Cloud’s Rest was about 3 miles of breathtaking beauty. Granite landscapes stretched endlessly into the distance, a reminder of Yosemite’s unique geological history. As we approached the base, the climb revealed itself—a steep incline of stacked rocks leading to the summit. To our left, towering granite cliffs rose sharply, and to the right, Half Dome appeared in the distance, teasing us with the adventure still to come.

Reaching the summit of Cloud’s Rest at 9,926 feet felt like stepping into a dream. The pale mountains stretched as far as the eye could see, their expanse so surreal it felt as though we were standing in front of a green screen. The view was both majestic and calming. We dropped our packs, letting the weight slip away, and spent some time soaking it all in—snapping photos and simply being present in the moment.

Initially, the plan was to summit Half Dome the following morning, but after some discussion, we decided to tackle both summits in one day. This change would allow us to head home earlier the next day and enjoy a good night’s sleep. It meant a long, grueling day ahead, but we were up for the challenge.

We descended into the valley, covering another 3 miles to reach Sunrise Creek near the John Muir Trail junction. For me, hiking downhill with a pack is tougher than uphill—it felt like my back was protesting every step. By the time we reached our campsite, I was ready for a break. We quickly set up camp, ate lunch, and switched to lighter day packs for the trek to Half Dome. The difference was night and day—I felt like I could hike a million miles without the extra weight.

Half Dome

The energy among our group shifted as we began the 2.5-mile climb to Half Dome’s summit. This was the moment we had all been waiting for. The first mile was breezy, with minimal elevation gain, but soon the incline steepened, demanding focus and stamina. As we passed other hikers descending, they encouraged us with smiles and promises: “Keep going—it’s amazing!”

The forest thinned, giving way to the infamous granite steps leading to the base of the dome. These massive, steeply inclined rock stairs seemed to stretch endlessly into the sky. I put on my headphones to drown out the sound of my labored breathing and found a rhythm in the music, letting it propel me forward.

Then, we reached it: the platform before the cables. Looking up at the nearly vertical climb was daunting. I’d always imagined the cables were more of a safety feature than a necessity, but standing there, I realized their true purpose. The thought crossed my mind: Is this something I really want to do? But there was no turning back.

Starting the cable climb was nerve-wracking. My hands gripped tightly to the cables, gloved but still sweating. I focused on the next step, refusing to look back for fear of vertigo. Fortunately, the trail was quiet, with only two other hikers to pass on the way up. About a quarter of the way in, I stopped to calm my breathing and refocus. The climb was as much mental as it was physical—every step a deliberate act of courage.

At the summit, I felt a wave of relief and awe. Half Dome’s top is surprisingly spacious, a massive granite platform with room to roam and admire the grandeur of Yosemite. As dusk began to settle, the view was beyond words—soft light painting the landscape in hues of gold and pink.

The descent was equally challenging. While some hikers opted to face forward, we turned our backs to the drop, gripping the cables tightly as we descended ladder-style. This method felt safer and steadier, with less risk of vertigo.

Back at camp, exhaustion hit hard, but so did pride. We had accomplished not one but two iconic Yosemite summits in a single day. After kicking off my boots and taking a much-needed moment to recharge in my tent, I joined the group for a well-deserved meal. Campfire tacos and whiskey never tasted so good.

That night, under the starry sky, we laughed, reflected on the day’s challenges, and reveled in the feeling of triumph. Sleep came easily, the kind of deep rest only an 11-mile day can bring. The next morning, we’d pack up and head home, but for now, we relished the satisfaction of having conquered Half Dome.

Day Three: From Wilderness to Civilization

We began the last day of our adventure with a comforting bowl of oatmeal and a strong cup of coffee, fueling up for the journey back to the world of paved roads and cell service. The final stretch would take us downhill along the iconic John Muir Trail, leading back to Half Dome Village.

Nevada Fall

The trek started smoothly, gravity lending a hand as we descended through the rugged beauty of Yosemite. Highlights of the day included a thrilling bear sighting that reminded us we were still guests in this untamed wilderness, and the stunning Nevada Waterfall, cascading dramatically over granite cliffs. Moments like these made the aches and exhaustion worth it, capturing the magic of Yosemite one last time.

After about 5 miles, the trail spilled into the bustling, tourist-filled Yosemite Valley. It was a stark contrast to the solitude we’d enjoyed in the backcountry. I have to admit, walking among the crowds with a towering pack strapped to my back made me feel like a bit of a badass. But as the miles added up, that badassery gave way to the all-too-real weight of my pack.

At 6.5 miles, we reached the road, and relief washed over me—until we realized we still had another mile to walk along the pavement to reach our car. That last mile felt endless, but when we finally arrived, I heaved my pack off with a mix of exhaustion and triumph. Switching out my hiking boots for sandals felt like heaven, my feet finally free from the confines of thick, dusty boots.

Our next move? Food. We piled into the car and made a beeline for the nearest spot to devour a well-earned meal on our way back to LA. Every bite tasted like victory.

Backpacking pushes you to your limits, testing both your physical and mental strength. There are moments where every step feels heavier than the last, where your shoulders ache and your feet beg for a break. But then, there are the magical moments—the sight of a breathtaking peak, a sparkling waterfall, or a chance encounter with wildlife in their natural habitat. Those moments remind you why you endure the lows.

As we drove away, I couldn’t help but reflect on the adventure. The sore muscles and tired feet would fade, but the memories of Yosemite’s wild beauty, its towering granite giants, and the sense of accomplishment from summiting two iconic peaks would stay with me forever.

After 5 miles we reached civilization again. The bustling and busy Yosemite that most people experience with loads of tourists. I have to admit I felt like a badass passing by with a massive pack on. Although after 6.5 miles we reached the road and I was ecstatic to remove it, only to find out we had to walk along the road for 1 more mile to our car. We got to the car and I heaved it off my back. I took off my hiking boots and replaced them with airy sandals. It felt good to be weightless. Next stop, scarfing down some hot food on the way back to lalaland. A well earned meal! 

Backpacking tests your mental and physical strength. There are low moments where your body aches and your feet are sore. But then you reach a peak, or see a gorgeous lake, or pass some wildlife in its natural habitat and suddenly your spirits are lifted for those magical moments of beauty and solitude in the backcountry.

Additional Tips

Set Up Camp Near Water

Always choose a campsite close to a fresh water source like a creek or lake. This makes it easier to refill your water bladders and bottles without adding extra mileage to your day.

Use a Water Filtration System

Yosemite’s water sources are beautiful but not always safe to drink straight from. Bring a reliable water filter or purification tablets to ensure you have clean drinking water

Protect Your Hands on the Cables

If you’re planning to summit Half Dome, pack a pair of sturdy, full-finger gloves. The cables are rough and can be hard on your hands during the climb.

Stay Hydrated

At high elevations, it’s easier to get dehydrated, especially if you’re sweating during strenuous hikes. Bring plenty of water and sip regularly, even if you don’t feel thirsty.

Pack Light but Smart

Backpacking requires a balance between carrying essential gear and keeping your pack light. Prioritize multipurpose items to reduce weight without sacrificing functionality.

Layer Up

Yosemite’s weather can be unpredictable. Bring moisture-wicking base layers, an insulating mid-layer, and a waterproof jacket to stay comfortable throughout the day.

Break In Your Boots

Wear well-broken-in hiking boots to avoid blisters and foot pain. Don’t forget extra socks to keep your feet dry and comfortable.

Know Your Limits

Backpacking Yosemite’s trails can be physically demanding, especially at high elevations. Pace yourself, listen to your body, and don’t hesitate to take breaks when needed.

Keep Food Secure

Store your food in bear canisters at night, away from your sleeping area, to avoid any unwanted encounters with wildlife.

Start Early

Begin your hikes early in the morning to avoid crowds, beat the heat, and give yourself plenty of daylight for reaching your destination.

Leave No Trace

Preserve Yosemite’s pristine beauty by packing out all trash, staying on designated trails, and respecting wildlife.

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Map of Route

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Want some more ideas for what to do in Yosemite? Check out my post National Park Guide: The Stunning Granite Rock Faces of Yosemite